Can you hear the call of Lisbon yet? The city where the waves of the Atlantic Ocean crash against the coast. The city with its beautifully colored facades, clotheslines, and cute tiles. And don’t forget that glorious sun, and the first bite of a warm pastel de nata. Our Culy editor Sophie Fleur stayed there for two months and now tips her favorite (vegan) addresses in Lisbon.
20 x food and drink in Lisbon
1. Marquise — breakfast, lunch
Here you will find all the virtues of the capital on a dressed plate: viennoiserie (order the pain au chocolate), crusty sourdough bread from our own oven and filter coffee. But you can also eat festive brunch dishes such as avocado toast, baos or Turkish eggs in a fresh yogurt-dill sauce. The place is Mediterranean-looking (walk on to the garden!) with here and there a rug or vase that wouldn’t look out of place in your own home. And yes, you can: the ceramics are for sale.
2. Cafe Sao — breakfast, lunch
Don’t be alarmed by the many laptops, or unfold one yourself. Despite the half working atmosphere, you can start the morning here very relaxed with a V60 (filter coffee) and don’t miss the French viennoiserie and patisserie. They make wonderful almond croissants, pistachio babkas, but also gougères and galette de rois . For less than 6 euros you can order a vegan plate: roasted sweet potato, stewed bell pepper, fried mushrooms, avocado and some crunchy raw vegetables. You can go there from breakfast until 4 pm.
3. Senhor UvA — dinner
Oooh Senhor Uva is such a sympathetic, delightful and just not too hip and hyped address where you sit down and just want (and have to) order the entire menu. The dishes are all vegetarian and are so ingenious that you want to learn from them. The products are local, but the flavors are fusion. They have roasted cauliflower with black garlic, beer, almond puree and fresh herbs: this match works even better than cauliflower with cheese! Another dish consists of roast potato, beetroot, fresh grapes, roasted amaranth and is served with a complex mole. Wowie!
Even better: unlike many vegetarian restaurants that ferment a lot, you won’t leave with a sour feeling in your stomach after a dinner at Senhor Uva. You feel really good and satisfied. Order a bottle of natural wine, the menu is full of it.
4. Rebel wines — wine
Small business, really tiny with very fine wine. The owners are in the process of opening their own restaurant. Until then, you can get natural wine here. You can also have a drink there if you don’t mind sitting on a stool.
5. Comida Independente—wine, snacks
This is what you get when you give the old-fashioned caterer a 2022 facelift. Comida is a wine (drink) shop where there is also something to eat. Lots of white terrazzo, books about natural wine in the cupboard and posters with events you want to attend. The food menu is small and written on the wall: cheeses, a sexy pastrami sandwich, focaccia, that sort of thing.
6. Shem — wine, dinner
The wine bar is a bit more atmospheric, but on the restaurant side you can taste more challenging dishes in the cooking style that Noma once initiated: purely seasonal products, zero waste, runaway cultures in the form of kombucha, koji, kimchi and other bubbling pots with lots of Portuguese ingredients. For example, we ate a terribly exciting iceberg salad (in the bar area). Hold on, can iceberg be exciting? Yep, this one was really crunchy, with a ranch-style yogurt dressing, fried onions and pickled radishes.
We also tasted potato noodles (sliced with the spiralizer) in whey with garlic, celery powder, horseradish and a kind of oil from pumpkin skins. We got not only bread next to it but also a waffle of leftover sourdough starter. Please don’t skip this one!
Eat. Here. you. Pastel.
8. Taberna da rua des Flores — dinner
More difficult for vegetarians because mainly fish (with an Asian edge). But such a nice thing! They come to the table with a chalkboard and the service is to pack. Although you can only order the tomato salad: the view of your table companion making the fried rye wing man, and dipped it double in the spicy Indian mayo, makes it more than worth a visit.
9. Jardim das Cerejas — lunch, dinner
Can you still remember the first vegetarian restaurants? We don’t, because from before our time. But we’re guessing they looked like Jardim where you get to scoop up a big buffet for 8 euros. Huge tubs filled with saucy tofu and seitan dishes, lasagna, Indian malai kofta, chana masala, salads… they have it all. Nice and warm, nice and filling and a bit (too) salty, but we forgive them for that.
10. Prado (Mercearia) — luxury lunch, dinner
A fancy pansy restaurant with tasty dishes that have been imposed with tweezers. Expect charred flavors, lots of acid and room for more as you walk away. Put on something beautiful!
Also nice: they now have their own caterer, which is not only stoneware, but also a beautiful sight to see. Stop here before picnicking outside, they have ready meals and all sorts of canned sardines and bottled olive oil. Everything is locally selected and prepared with love and care.
11. Cafe Tati – drinks, dinner
Tati used to sit across from the time out market, then they had to leave because it was getting too expensive and now they’re in an up and coming hip neighborhood where their clientele happens to live. All’s well that ends well. You drink dynamic wine and tapas-like dishes that are quite comfortable. For example, we ate mushrooms with a parmesan sauce and savory cake.
12. Boavista social club – drinks, dinner
Mixed feelings as it looks very much like a concept rather than a place where you want to eat and drink. In addition, the entire team consists of 0.0% Portuguese. However, the map is nice and the music good.
13. Lupita Pizzaria
Sourdough pizza with panther print (of those delicious dark specks) and fantastic toppings. Our favorite final destination.
- Niva Gelato : For the creamiest pistachio ice cream ever.
- Formerly known as : a new bar with tasty cocktails and good music.
- Gleba : knotty bread based on sourdough and local grains.
- Damas : a cultural restaurant where you can eat very well vegan.
- Vino vero : a wine bar run by Italians. The choice is huge!
- Thank you mama : couldn’t test but the bagels look good.
- Arkhe : this seems to be fantastic! Chic vegetarian dining and lunch in a beautiful place.